Lentil and rhubarb curry
Rhubarb gets the savoury treatment
Welcome to To Vegetables, With Love, a celebration of a vegetable life, less ordinary. ‘ Find archived recipes on my recipe index.
My book Tenderheart is available from Books are Magic, Kitchen, Arts and Letters, Book Larder, Bold Fork Books and also here or here.
This week’s recipe is unlocked for all.
On a recent unseasonably warm Spring Friday, I met a friend and colleague for a spontaneous midday drink. A chilled rose for him, an iced hibiscus tea for me. An unplanned meeting with no agenda is an indulgence. I love how free the conversation is, guided only by the fragility of the moment. We talked about many things, but the conversation that stuck with me was one about creativity, how we unlock it and how we stay true to it.
We live in a creators world. In fact, some now use this word as their job title. But there is a difference in being a creator and being creative. A creator makes things. These things may already exist in the world, but they are bringing their interpretation of it to the world. A creative makes new things. They are pushing boundaries, introducing new thoughts and ideas to the world.
In my daily practice as a cookbook author, writer and recipe developer, I have a mantra. I constantly remind myself that my work must always reflect me and my unique experience. It must encapsulate my tastes, my cravings, my cultural background, my family, my curiosities. These lived-in idiosyncrasies are the source of my creativity. They manifest in the flavours and textures on the plate. They manifest in my writing. They are seen here, in this newsletter.
Every day is different when you are a creative. Inspiration comes in unplanned, unexpected ways. This is how this week’s recipe came to be…
On Monday, it was gloomy, and there was the promise of rainfall. I have been more intentional about walking lately, so I ventured out early before the skies opened. As I ventured around the corner, listening to Lou Reed’s Transformer, my mind became jumbled with the possibilities of rhubarb. It felt urgent to stop and type up some ideas. I popped into a nearby coffee shop and opened up my Notes app, where I have an ongoing list of recipe ideas. Months ago, I had written down a concept: a savoury rhubarb dish. Today was the day that idea would come to fruition.
I made a shopping list and continued on my way. I popped by Radio Bakery, and I bumped into my friends Stiliani and Ruth. They had just purchased a rhubarb & custard croissant from the bakery. I enthusiastically told them about my savoury rhubarb idea. Ruth’s reaction was less enthusiastic than mine. But I was not to be derailed. We walked back to our neighborhood together and I picked up some rhubarb on my way home.
This week’s lentil and rhubarb curry may seem unexpected, and it may even garner skepticism. Many of my recipes do (countless people have told me they were skeptical about my dumpling salads at first). I actually welcome that reaction because it means I’ve challenged a preconceived notion. Perhaps I’m even presenting a new idea?
While used mostly in sweet applications, rhubarb is botanically a vegetable. This curry shows the versatility of rhubarb, offering bright pops of tartness, with a smooth silky texture. My boys ate this without comment, always a small victory.
Another wonder of rhubarb? It is one of the few vegetables that is concurrently seasonal in both New York and Sydney! I have always wondered why this is the case, how it hits markets in Spring here and in the Autumn in Sydney.
I have another idea for a savoury rhubarb dish. If it turns out, I will share it with you next week! In the meantime, let me know if you have cooked rhubarb in a savoury way. I’d love to know.
SPECIAL EVENT: SUBSTACK LIVE WITH ERIN GLEESON
I have a new watercolour habit lately and it’s partly been spurred by the wonderful new book The Watercolour Feast by
! So I’m absolutely thrilled that Erin will be leading us in a PAINT AND COOK LUNCH HOUR, where she will show us how to paint one of the fruits featured in her book, and then show us a recipe with that ingredient. It’s going to be soooo much fun. I hope you will join us, paint along and then cook with us.
Wednesday May 21, 1 PM ET
(to join, subscribe to this newsletter and make sure you have downloaded the Substack app on your smartphone)
If you’d like to paint with us, you’ll need some watercolor paint, a brush, water and watercolour paper. If you don’t have watercolour or if you are a newbie like me, below are some art supplies that you may consider acquiring before our LIVE event.
I am a complete novice so this is what I use:
Winsor & Newton Cotman Watercolors - Sketcher's Pocket Set of 12
Winsor & Newton Classic Watercolor Paper Postcard Pad
Erin has kindly supplied a list of things that she uses and likes:
Here are a few more links to other supplies that are more affordable:
Multi pack of affordable brushes
Thick postcard paper with torn edges
Bulk pack of paper (slightly thinner than the Strathmore but decent and much more affordable per sheet, great for my kids who blow through paper!)
All NYT Cooking recipes have gift links:
Monday: I love this new kale, couscous and tofu salad on NYT Cooking - the carrot ginger dressing is so fresh, so zingy, so tasty! Did I mention it’s no-cook? I use a store bought baked tofu which is a super time saver…
Tuesday: Lemony Roasted Mushroom Pasta for the ‘shroom lovers
Wednesday: This skillet vegetarian filo galette with spinach, potato and cheddar cheese is so easy, definitely do-able midweek
Thursday: This pink-ish beetroot pasta salad with goats cheese, walnuts, rocket/arugula and balsamic vinaigrette is pretty and delicious
Friday: Spicy tofu and mushroom mazemen is a supercharged umami brothless ramen dish that you’ll crave
🥦 My cookbook, Tenderheart is for cooking vegetables, all year round. Pick up your copy here. It is also mostly vegan (or vegan-izable) and gluten-free adaptable.
Lentil and rhubarb curry
© Hetty Lui McKinnon for To Vegetables, With Love.
The rhubarb does not need a long cook. Ideally you want to take the curry off the heat as soon as the rhubarb turns tender, but before it falls apart and disintegrates into pulp.
Serves 4
vegan / gluten free
2 tablespoons neutral oil such as grapeseed
1 onion (any colour), diced
5cm / 2 inch piece ginger, peeled and finely diced
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 Serrano or other green chili, finely chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon turmeric
150g (about 3/4 cup) French (puy) lentils
450g (about 2 large) potatoes, peeled and cut into 2.5cm (1-inch) pieces
625ml (about 2 1/2 cups) vegetable stock
400ml (1 can) coconut milk
3 rhubarb stalks (about 325g / 12 ounces), sliced into 1.25cm (1/2-inch) pieces
Basmati rice, to serve (or other variety)
Curry leaf tadka (optional)
2 tablespoons ghee
1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds
About 30-40 curry leaves
Pinch of asafoetida
Heat a medium pot on medium heat. When hot, add the oil, along with the onion, ginger, and garlic. Stir until the onion has softened, about 2 minutes. Add the green chili, cumin, coriander, garam masala and turmeric and stir until fragrant, about 30 to 60 seconds. Add 1 teaspoon of salt and season with black pepper, along with the lentils, potatoes and vegetable stock. Stir, cover and cook until the lentils and potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.
Add the coconut milk and rhubarb and cook until the rhubarb is just tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat immediately (the rhubarb will continue to soften in the residual heat). Taste and season with salt and pepper, if needed.
If you are making the curry leaf tadka, place the ghee into a small frypan and heat over medium. Carefully add the mustard seeds, curry leaves and asafoetida (it may spit so stand back) and allow the seeds to crackle and pop and the leaves to crisp up - this should take about 30 to 60 seconds.
Divide the rice into bowl, spoon over the curry, and pour some of the curry leaf tadka over each serving. Top with cilantro/coriander, and serve
.
I would love to make this as we have lots of rhubarb in the garden at the moment but how much coconut milk do you need? Thank you.
Made this tonight. This is a phenomenally good curry. I could not believe how good it was. I’d never cooked with rhubarb before. The tartness of the rhubarb against the curry flavor worked well—like they belonged together. So flavorful. A keeper. Thanks for developing and thanks for sharing.