Welcome to To Vegetables, With Love, a celebration of a vegetable life, less ordinary. ‘ Find archived recipes on my recipe index.
My book Tenderheart is available from Books are Magic, Kitchen, Arts and Letters, Book Larder, Bold Fork Books and also here or here.
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On Monday, it was wet, grey and cold. The stock markets were crashing and there was really not much to feel excited about. My mood needed comfort. I turned to rice.
I set out to make a spring vegetable biryani. But that morning, rattled by the bleakness of the day, I was unable to stay the course of my intended dish.
The result is something biryani-esque, though certainly not traditional. Leeks were a spontaneous decision but they add a nice silky texture and sweetness. Fennel was also unplanned but they deliver much-desired spring feels, along with a slight crunch and a welcome flavour complexity. Paneer was always the ‘body’ of dish but somehow during cooking, I decided to add some potatoes too, perhaps a subconscious choice to curry favour with my starch-loving boys. Bright green peas (I used frozen) deliver freshness and colour. I intended to incorporate asparagus and sugar snaps too, but ended up forgoing them for simplicity. However, you could add chopped asparagus and/or sugar snap peas in place of the peas.
While not the dish I planned, it satisfied all that I needed in that moment, a melange of intense spices, surprising textures, creamy moments and the familiar embrace of rice.
If you are looking to try an actual vegetable biryani dish, I have cooked and enjoyed this one.
Meals to ease these uncertain days. All NYT Cooking recipes have gift links:
Monday: A new one on NYT Cooking, a French onion soup, with white beans.
Tuesday: Who else finds cabbage deeply comforting. This is for you, a new recipe for Roasted Cabbage With Capers and Garlic
Wednesday: Broken Egg Salad, a new recipe, the result is as luxurious as eggs are nowadays
Thursday: Fusilli with broccoli, feta and walnuts
Friday: Vegetarian cauliflower, pea and potato curry pie
🥦 My cookbook, Tenderheart is for cooking vegetables, all year round. Pick up your copy here. It is also mostly vegan (or vegan-izable) and gluten-free adaptable.
Biryani-inspired spring vegetable rice with paneer
© Hetty Lui McKinnon for To Vegetables, With Love.
If you’re using fresh peas, blanch them first to soften. This is an adaptable dish. You could add any vegetables you have on hand such as cauliflower, carrots, green beans, sweet potatoes or zucchini.
The vegetable stock is optional but adds a nice flavour to the rice.
Achaar is an Indian condiment that is sharp, tangy and spicy. It is a transformative to the dish, and here, it adds liveliness. I love the roasted garlic achaar from Brooklyn Delhi.
Serves 4
300g (1 1/2 cups) basmati rice
3 cups vegetable stock or water
3 tablespoons ghee, butter (salted or unsalted), or extra virgin olive oil
2 small leeks (450g / 1 pound), white and green parts sliced
1 serrano (or long green) chili pepper, thinly sliced
1-inch piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 small fennel, trimmed and finely diced
250g (9 ounces) Yukon gold potato, cut into 1.25cm (1/2-inch) cubes
375g (about 12 to 14 ounces) paneer, cut into 2.5cm (1-inch) cubes
60g (1/4 cup) plain or coconut yoghurt
285g (2 cups) frozen peas, thawed (or fresh, see head note)
½ cup chopped coriander/cilantro leaves
½ cup chopped mint leaves
1 lemon, halved, to serve
plain or coconut yoghurt, to serve
achaar, to serve (optional)
Spice Mix
3 teaspoons garam masala
1/2 teaspoon garlic or onion powder (optional)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
gluten free / for vegan, use olive oil and non-dairy yoghurt
Substitute
Leeks: 2 large onions (any colour)
Fennel: carrot, parsnip
Potato: sweet potato, rutabaga (swede), turnip
Place the rice in a medium bowl, add water and swish the rice with your hands and drain. Repeat this 2 or 3 more times until the water almost runs clear. Place the rice into a pot and top with vegetable stock or water (if using water, add a few pinches of salt). Place on medium high heat, cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cook until the rice is just tender and the water has been absorbed, 10-12 minutes.
Place the sliced leeks into a colander and rinse well with water, squeezing and agitating them with your hands to loosen any dirt. Drain.
In a small bowl, make the spice mix by combining the garam masala, garlic or onion powder (if using), cumin, coriander and fennel.
Heat a large wide Dutch oven or pot on medium high heat. Add the ghee (or butter/olive oil) along with the leeks and cook, stirring often, until the leeks are soft, starting to caramelize and sticking to the pan, about 10 to 14 minutes. Add the fennel, ginger, potato, serrano chili pepper, the spice mix, 1/2 cup water, season with 1 teaspoon of salt and lots of black pepper and toss well to combine. Cover and cook for 5 minutes.
Uncover, add the paneer and yoghurt, stir to combine and cook for 2 minutes, tossing often.
Top the vegetables and paneer with the rice, season with sea salt and black pepper, followed by the peas. Top with half of the coriander/cilantro and mint leaves. Cover, reduce heat to medium low and cook for 10 minutes, to warm the peas and allow the flavours to meld.
To serve, top with more coriander/cilantro and mint leaves, and dollop with yoghurt and achaar, if using. Serve with lemon on side.
Your thought process during cooking is so relatable. Last minute changes, unplanned additions or subtractions. Doing what you gotta do to get it on the table and make people eat it! But you came up with something comforting and new. I love that. Sending hugs to you and your fam during this miz time. Thanks for continuing to share and spread joy through your food!!
Think of changing up recipes as not only a creative move but a bold move. It's good to nudge ourselves and grow in many ways. I suppose the shake up recipes are also loved by our microbiome as well. Cook and live adventurously. Thanks for saring, wish I was in your kitchen!